A place of myth and mystery
Walking into Dalchini was nothing like walking into your local Indian. In fact, the subtleness of its charms slowly comes together as you gather your thoughts: the decor, the music, then the menu confirms that Dalchini is much, much more, writes Michael Holland.
Mihir, our server and local guide for the evening, offered one of several tables and Nina chose the one by the open window where we could people-watch as Wimbledon walked by. He brought menus and left us in peace to make our choices.
A draught Cobra arrived along with a Fresh Lime Salted Soda for Nina (which she adored) while we checked out the food.
The first page described how Dalchini was the first truly Pan-Asian restaurant in the UK, with history of its beginnings in Kolkata, and clarified why the usual cliché ‘classics’ were missing and replaced by dishes with an Eastern twist.
With so many interesting options it was difficult to choose but we got there in the end. Mahim Fish Koliwada was a lightly spiced, fish goujon with a mint chutney dip. Very moreish, but I was more taken with the Pepper Chilli Paneer, where the Indian cheese was served with crushed onion and garlic and took on a more meaty texture.
Our choice of Tom Yum Soup was merely because we hadn’t had one for a long time. It could have had a bit more heat for my liking – I want my nose to tingle and eyes to water!
It was only 6.30 but Dalchini was filling up with families, couples and friend groups. Mihir brought me a house white, whose sharpness complemented our starters. He told us he has worked here for most of the 25 years that Dalchini has been serving the community, that it has a solid local customer base, and that he has a secret surprise for us…
Our main courses, that we shared, were a delight. Dalchini Prawn Pimento came in a thick tomato, bell pepper and Szechuan pepper sauce and were exclusive to Dalchini. There was a depth to the sauce that made it special. The Prawn Pak Choi in Ginger Wine Sauce was a lighter, less intense affair, but just as good.
But, strangely, it was the accompaniments that evoked the most discussion. Nina was very impressed with the lightness of the paratha, while I became excited by the simplicity of the Burnt Ginger Rice where the staple ingredient was lifted out of its dullness into another sphere. Plus, I always get stirred by something simple I can replicate at home.
After Nina had seen off a Lemongrass and Coconut Pannacotta (Pimped up with caramelised pineapple, basil seeds, and passion fruit broth), that she didn’t want to share because of its deliciousness, Mihir invited us to follow him through a secret door that he appeared to open with a wave of his hand. It revealed a magical neon-lit stairway, which led to an amazing bar where the wall lighting created intimacy while it threw everyone into silhouette. This was Holy Brew, a Speakeasy beneath the streets of Wimbledon. A place of myth and mystery and a menu of creative cocktails enlivened with Asian spices.
Here, bathed in mystical light, you could indulge in a luxury Louis XIII cognac if you so wished, but I went for something more on my level, a white rum-based concoction that is said to revive corpses and was enticingly created with a 12-year-old Eldorado, Copeland Smugglers Reserve, Falermum Velvet Liqueur and bitters. It went by the name of Moksha and was not one for the faint-hearted.
Nina had a potion made for her of mango puree, lime, non-alcoholic gin, lemonade and chilli, which she rather enjoyed.
Our expert mixologist offered other cocktails with an Asian twist but we had already had a satisfying experience in Dalchini where the staff work to make sure everyone who enters has a good time.
Dalchini, 147 Arthur Road, London, SW19 8AB
Sunday – Thursday: 12:00 – 22:30; Friday – Saturday: 12:00 – 23:00.
0208 947 5967 – www.dalcini.co.uk
4 courses with drinks £120
Photos: M. Holland
