A magical mix of S.E. London and Africa
It’s not often I go to Peckham for an evening of fine dining and socialising with local man Mark, who knows all the shortcuts, but after seeing how buzzing it is in the Rye Lane environs, I think I’ll be visiting more often, writes Michael Holland.
I was there to have dinner at 139Fika, in Bellenden Road, and talk to the owner, Saulo, a Peckham Boy who is trying to add something to the community he grew up in. He began by telling me that Fika is a Swedish tradition of slowing down, enjoying a coffee and taking time to connect with others. In Swahili, fika also means to arrive. ‘Both meanings,’ he explains, ‘represent what we’re about. We’ve arrived on Bellenden Road, and our philosophy is simple: slow down and enjoy the moment.’ And in this street of cosy-looking independent shops, that is precisely what I intended to do.
139Fika opened in 2024 and already has a 4.9-star rating on Google from over 700 reviews. In just over two years the restaurant has built a reputation for its dishes and flavours from Nigeria, Ghana and Ethiopia, with a menu put together by the chef, Richard, who has a Jamaican background. So it’s all going on there taste-wise, with many ingredients from Africa to ensure authenticity. It is a small menu but definitely enough choice for every diner.
I went for the Sweet Spice Pumpkin and Coconut Soup. This was a thick and hearty broth that my spoon nearly stood up in – just how I like it – and absolutely ideal for this cold spell we’re in right now. Mark had the Superfood Salad, that included different grains, kale, beetroot and a dressing that raised it up into the Super League.
Saulo brought a bottle of the house wine, an extremely moreish 2023 Organic Macabeo from Spain. Mark remarked that its fruity notes really complemented the citrussy dressing in his salad. I just knew that I liked it. A lot.
Our host explained how the chef has the freedom to experiment. ‘I want 139Fika to be a place where we can take risks, challenge ourselves, experiment and not be afraid to try something different.’
Experimentation and customer feedback have created changes in the menu as it becomes fine-tuned to what people want. ‘Richard and I have developed a great understanding of each other. He understands my vision for the restaurant and our African, Caribbean and British identity. He creates the dishes, we taste and refine them together, and I give the final approval to make sure they represent what we’re trying to achieve.’
The young server brought our mains. I was very tempted by the braised oxtail, but having had two days of eating my own stew at home, I felt like I should have a break, so chose the Pan-fried Sea Bass fillet. It came with smoked shrimp, wilted greens, and egusi, a classic Nigerian dish, which is made from melon seeds and is a new and surprising addition to my palate. I will be tracking down a store that sells it. The fish was cooked perfectly, and the whole dish opened doors to a new world for me.
On the other side of the table, Mark was enjoying his Pan-roasted Chicken Breast, with Waakye rice (something like a Ghanaian version of the West Indian rice and peas), smoked paprika okra and red sauce. At one point, he looked up, eyes watering, and whispered – because his voice had gone – ‘The red sauce is a bit warm…’ And then steamed right back into it. He looked up again, took another mouthful, and gave me the OK wink.
The portions are good, so, with the generous bowl of fried plantain, we were full right up and ready to wind down with the rest of the wine and talk to Saulo.
He told us of his plans to grow and become ‘firmly established as a restaurant known for exceptional food, genuine hospitality and memorable experiences.’ He employs four 16-year-olds, who, he says, ‘are doing an incredible job.’ And Saulo aims to create more jobs that support the community, and give more opportunities to young people. ‘I’d love 139Fika to continue being a place where teenagers can learn, build confidence, develop responsibility and gain skills that will stay with them…’
Of course, his dreams are held back by ‘rising operating costs, staffing challenges and the realities of keeping a business financially sustainable’, but Saulo has faith in the future and wants to attract new customers to come to Peckham to eat well in his neighbourhood restaurant, and add to his local customer base.
I’ve just checked out the website and seen the brunch menu – it’s a medley of magical options, but this one stood out: Ackee & saltfish (cod), tropical pear, grilled merguez sausages with baked beans, fried plantain, toast and poached eggs! So I’ll be going back for a breakfast that mixes South East London and North West Africa. What’s not to love?
139Fika, 139 Bellenden Road, SE15 4DH
Booking and full details: https://139fika.com/
