Castle Square, the go-to place in the Elephant & Castle, needs to be checked out at regular intervals because you never know what new addition has added to the vibe there. Myself and City Hope’s Paul Brown did just that and found Cherry Tiger, an absolute gem of a cocktail bar on the top floor, writes Michael Holland.
On entering we found mood lighting, an ambient soundtrack, regular customers who had obviously sussed this place out soon after its opening last April, and a warm welcome by George Barrow and Ben, the mixologists who answered all our questions and kept us hydrated and lubricated in our time there.
Ben is George’s protégée who he gives much praise: ‘Ben has been a fantastic team member since we opened up Cherry Tiger. This is his first bar job in some years and it’s been a fantastic opportunity for me to train him up from the bottom. He came in with no bad habits or ego and has continuously grown with the bar.’
Paul and I can vouch for that vote of approval.
I asked George about his love for cocktails: ‘My parents owned a restaurant for over 30 years and I come from a big family who have always found an excuse to celebrate, so it’s in my DNA… Plus, I’ve always enjoyed seeing bartenders genuinely love what they do and be passionate about it. You know the drink is going to be good before it has even been poured.’
The passion that George sees in others is evident when he talks about creating new cocktails, and infusing spirits to make other flavours: ‘Infusions add complexity and consistency to a cocktail,’ he said while carefully pouring a rum infused with pineapple and scotch bonnet chilli into my rather exquisite Elephant Road Daiquiri.
Paul had begun with ‘Another Swifty’ where they had infused Cacao Nibs into the Demerara rum, which was then mixed down with a coconut rum: ‘The Cacao Nibs add a richness, which is hard to get into a cocktail otherwise,’ said George as he watched us take our first sips.
Between cocktails, we were invited to try out some of the other wonderful infusions, and each one was sensational; either a smooth ride of moreish-ness or a firework display of taste exploding on the palate.
Every cocktail put before us became ‘the best cocktail I’ve ever had’ until the next one arrived and we said it again. The White Fennel Negroni was an amazing aniseed delight; the Sunflower a homage to summer; Paul’s Manhattan took him back to his New York trip, while my Zombie evoked memories of a holiday in the Canaries.
Each cocktail comes with a full explanation of where the various components were sourced and how the infusions were concocted and the recipe is diligently logged in George’s personal files. Every part of the evening added to our enjoyment.
I asked George about his folder full of cocktail recipes: ‘I love exploring flavour combinations and how every ingredient’s quantity can alter the balance of the drink. Writing my own specs for every cocktail we do at Cherry Tiger is like an expression of myself in each one. It’s how I like the drink and it makes me happy when others do too.’
We definitely liked them.
And George’s favourite creation? ‘I’d say the drink I am most proud of making is a drink called ’Tour Du Sud Avec Xavier’. I wanted to put Pastis on the menu and celebrate the traditional drinking culture from the south of France. Pastis from Marseille, Dry Vermouth and a melon liqueur from Cavaillon all combine in a highball with lemon and soda. All expressions of what southern France has to offer in a glass. It’s a light summer sipper than can be enjoyed any time of the day.’
The pièce de résistance was an old French contraption that drip-fed chilled water through an ice cube into a glass of absinthe. This was true theatre that took you back to the world of the Impressionists imbibing the very same concoction in a Montmartre bar or Toulouse-Lautrec whiling away his evenings in the Moulin Rouge. It was a great finish to a great evening.
Cherry Tiger is the cherry on top of the Castle Square cake.
Castle Square, Elephant & Castle SE17 1AY. Times: Wednesday & Thursday: 5-10PM; Friday: 3-11PM; Saturday: 1-11PM; Sunday: 1-10PM
Prices from £6.50 – £8.50
