There’s a new restaurant in town and it let the town know it was here with a big, brash, brunch bash with all the razzmatazz of a street festival that gave us costumed dancers and steel band musicians, along with the very best of Caribbean cuisine, writes Michael Holland.
Antillean describes itself as Pan-Caribbean with a menu that ‘will reflect the French, African, Spanish, Indian, Dutch and Chinese influences on the Caribbean’. And those dishes are spread out over several types of menu that cater for the long and leisurely dinners, the pre-theatre crowd, guests that like to snack at the bar, and those that enjoy a fixed price lunch.
On arrival the music and the buzz of the crowd hit you at the door, and the further you got into the restaurant the more you felt your hips sway, your shoulders rock, and your head nodding to the beat, and before you know it you are shimmering between the tables like you are at the Notting Hill Carnival!
For their opening, chef Michael Hanbury and culinary Director Baziz Rachedi served up a set brunch menu that covered everybody’s needs, tastes and fancies. I was dining with Fiona, a staunch teetotal vegetarian who expects the same treatment as the carnivorous. She scanned the vegetarian menu fiercely. Before long I glimpsed an imperceptible nod of approval, and I sighed with relief. You don’t want to upset a hungry vegetarian…
The dishes and the wine and the water soon began arriving, delivered by a friendly and knowledgeable staff. Plantain and Lotus Fruit crisps were set before us for an appetiser before my sublime Scallop Ceviche arrived. I had to stop talking for a while as I concentrated on the chilli and lime and texture and, and… Fiona made noises of appreciation over her Mango Salad with green papaya, tomato and spicy dressing. We both got caught out with the kick of the dressing, and that was an epicurean bonus.
What followed was a watermelon and beetroot salad, a Rasta Pasta, Grilled Octopus with mango, cucumber, mint and scotch bonnet emulsion, Jackfruit Curry (Fiona’s favourite), sweet potato mash, a Calabaza and Purple Yam Tart, Roast Achiote Tamarind Chicken with BBQ Sauce and rice and peas (My favourite), and Rum marinated Ribeye with a salsa verde.
We were now struggling to eat all is delicious. and all the lovely desserts that we had witnessed gliding by were now torturous to see. The Rum Baba and Guinness Punch ice cream had lost their attractiveness to our full bellies, and we had to tell our server that we would not be having the dessert. It’s a decision I did not take lightly and perhaps one that I will forever regret, but at least I can return and make sure there is room for dessert next time.
A lot of money, time and thought has gone into this venture, and it deserves to be a success. The decor is simple, minimal. Just plain white walls with all the colour coming from the plates and the people. We had sampled just some of the highlights of what Antillean has to offer. Looking through their menus is enough to rouse the taste buds awake and plan for our next visit. I suggest you do that right now.
Antillean, 74 Blackfriars Road, SE1 8HA
0203 011 4449 – www.antillean.co.uk
Monday to Friday: 9:00 – 23:00; Saturday: 10:00 – 23:00; Sunday: 12:00 – 18:00
