Africa in Fashion: Threats Within the Threads

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As part of Planet Summer, I attended Africa in Fashion: Threads on Global Sustainability at the Southbank Centre’s Royal Festival Hall. This illuminating and thought-inspiring talk, led by a diverse panel, provided valuable insight about the role of the fashion and creative industries in contributing to the climate crisis, writes Bella Christy. 

Entering the Southbank Centre, I was pulled towards the warm and vibrant arrangement that seemed to call out for me to take a seat. Before the discussion began, attendees were reminded of the town hall essence of the event; all listeners were encouraged to engage in conversation. This fostered an inclusive and relaxed environment as we were welcomed into the space. Additionally, we were gently reminded that given the conversational nature of the event, with the topics addressed constantly evolving, not everyone may possess an answer to all questions. This further enhanced an atmosphere of kindness and compassion.

The talk was hosted by Tracey Sage, Creative director of Sage Culture, who successfully facilitated the discussion, keeping the dialogue flowing from person to person. She began by establishing the lack of sustainable action from the fashion and wider creative industries, exerting that the threat of the climate crisis cannot be taken lightly. 

Tracy then introduced the diverse collection of panelists, experts in their fields: Francesca Zoppi, sustainable development specialist; Kamya Choudhary, India Policy Fellow working on climate policy; Peter Musebi, BBC World journalist; and British-Nigerian artist Sokari Douglas. 

The panelists had a moment to introduce themselves and their work, highlighting key issues in the world of fashion and sustainability. The biggest takeaway from these introductory talks was the position of Africa and the the global south in the conversation of fashion sustainability. There is an unequal relationship between the Global North and South in terms of reward and consequence. The Global North’s fashion environment flourishes, reaping economic benefit whilst Africa and the Global South face the environmental consequences. An audience member continues this thought, confidently she speaks out, addressing the question of why such dynamics exists, attributing it to deep rooted racism. Her words resonated greatly, and a wave of applause followed.

Sokari begins her talk by recognising ‘I am a polluter’. A notion most of us can relate to. Whilst the polluting nature of the fashion industry was established as systematic, It was also deemed important to recognise ones own impact. How can we, as consumers, reduce our environmental impact? Buy less, shop sustainably, engage in circular fashion. Though ultimately the issue expands wider than one’s own individual actions. 

This discussion all occurred against the backdrop of an art installation named There Is No Such Thing As Rubbish. The collaboration between Sokari Douglas Camp, Gary March, Nicola J Reid and Rasaq uses ‘waste’ to create art that challenges our understanding of rubbish and disposal. Echoing the conversation that was occurring between the panel and audience. 

The discussion ended with an audience member proposing to the panel, ‘what is the blueprint for moving forward in this fashion and climate crisis’: to which we received a plethora of answers. Education was a leading response, followed by ‘kicking consumerism’ and encouraging alternative uses of waste. 

I left this event feeling inspired, encouraged to adapt my fashion behaviour, and educated about the influence of African fashion industry in the wider fashion world. 

Planet Summer at the Southbank Centre continues until September 3rd.

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