The director of Comptoir Gourmand, Quentin Wind, tells us about the bakery’s SE1 history and how to make the perfect pastry
Tell us about Comptoir’s SE1 history…
Quentin Wind: It all started at Borough Market 24 years ago, when you could count the number of traders on two hands.
Having grown in SE1, more specifically in Bermondsey, I saw huge changes: the Shard being built, Borough Market expanding and changes to Bermondsey Street and Maltby Market.
Comptoir Gourmand has been there from the start, and many of our recipes haven’t changed since!
At the age of eight, at the end of the day at Borough Market, I used to love selling unsold pastries to the market traders – it was an easy sell with just a smile, and it used to pay for sweets.
How does the area influence Comptoir now?
Although a lot has changed since we started as a trader in Borough Market in 1999, pastry lovers and our loyal locals are still on the hunt for authentic brands that offer quality and convenience.
Since people spend more time working from home, we’ve noticed a demand for our cafes to offer space to sit in – we now have our newly renovated Maltby location offering exactly that.
What are your bestsellers?
Our customers absolutely love our classic range – our almond croissant is a favourite that people return for time and time again.
Recently, we’ve introduced more patisserie on the weekends, including three flavours of macarons and tarts, as well as vegan cakes, which often sell out.
How do you think the perfect pastry is made?
Unlike many bakeries who buy their products frozen, we make all of ours from scratch with 100% butter, which makes the difference.
There are two other factors to make the perfect pastry, the flour and the technique. The flour is very important and it’s hard to find the right balance. The technique is nearly an ancient secret in France, passed on from generation to generation. It’s a bit like the Italians with their pasta recipes, the best ones are written in their grandma’s recipe books – and I’m lucky to have a grandma who has passed her secrets down to the next generation.
We’re also very lucky to have such a loyal, dedicated team of pastry chefs, who often work through the night to have freshly baked pastries on display by 8am. Without them, there would be no such thing as the perfect pastry!
You work with Monmouth Coffee, a local to SE16 – why are local partnerships important?
Monmouth is a good old friend of ours, we have been with them for the past 12 years. Supporting local businesses is key for us, especially having made it through challenging times together over the last few years.
Finally, what’s next for Comptoir?
There’s always a lot going on behind the scenes. In November 2023, we renovated our original Maltby location, which is now an open, welcoming space for people to catch up with friends, ‘work from home’, host team meetings, or use as a private event space – all while getting to see behind the scenes in our kitchen. It’s great to see our Maltby cafe become such a ‘hub’ of the business.
Our current, very exciting project is the launch of our Cookery School, which is a huge step and something we’ve been eager to share.
96 Bermondsey Street, SE1 3UB
Ropewalk, Maltby Street, SE1 3PB
