Review: The Coal Shed

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Celebrating 15 Years with 2011 Prices

Fifteen years ago, The Coal Shed first opened its doors to an excited Brighton, and since that time has built up a loyal and flourishing fanbase. It was obvious that one day they would open a second restaurant in the country’s capital, London. But, even better, they opened in Bermondsey and celebrated their fifteen-year anniversary by taking their prices back to 2011 for a supremely superb Three Courses for £35. writes Michael Holland.

As you step in from the riverfront, the aromas from the kitchen waft silently through the restaurant. You feel your taste buds come to life. A server brought water and menus, but we, myself and fine-dining friend, Julia, knew we were having the celebratory Three Courses, with wines specially selected for each dish. My mouth is watering just thinking about it again!

First came an Australian Shiraz, rich with spice and berry notes that excited my companion. I wasn’t so sure. At least not until the second or third sip, when my palate aligned with the wine’s unique flavour. As we made agreeable noises about the Shiraz, the first course was set before us: a nicely sized semi-slab of beef short rib, slow-cooked to the point where you could have eaten it with a spoon. A crimson glaze covered it and held a myriad of secrets. So much so, our server, with a smile and a wink, refused to tell us what was in it other than the basic ingredients. Adding to that was its pickled cucumber and red chilli accompaniment that gave it an eye-opening bite.

The Coal Shed has quite a dark décor, but that does not darken the mood lighting. And with the huge windows, a lot of light will shine on diners in the daytime. Music plays at a level that will never annoy. It is all kind of perfect.

Another server brought a new wine, with information of its history. This time we enjoyed an Argentinean Malbec. Again, full-bodied, and ideal for the Chateaubriand that arrived soon after, perfectly pink in the middle and really not needing the steak knife to cut it. The prime cut of beef was served with a peppercorn sauce and beef dripping chips. 

Now, I enjoy good meat cooked well as much as any carnivore, but I do get excited about chips cooked properly in beef dripping, and these bad boys ticked every box on the good chip chart.

It was time to savour and discuss what we’d had. Our thoughts were the same: Great food, great cooking, great staff. 

The Coal Shed has been using the same meat supplier since day one – the multi-award-winning Hannan Meats – and with quality like this I don’t see them changing anytime soon.

After a decent break we were ready for dessert: Sticky Toffee Pudding with Vanilla Ice Cream. We all know what that is and how good it is. This one was sublime, and was enhanced with an extremely indulgent Valpolicella dessert wine. I didn’t care about its floral fruitiness; I was floating away with how good this magical combination made me feel. What’s Italian for Heaven?

The Coal Shed has created its success through the high standard of the produce and the chefs, but there is a real team effort in making the whole thing work. They know their stuff and carry it out without any fuss. The anniversary celebration is a tribute to all of them that made our evening a memorable one.

The Coal Shed, One Tower Bridge, Crown Square, London, SE1 2SE.

The 2011 Price Three Courses continues until October 25th.

£35 per head + optional £35 wine pairing. 

Available Monday 5-8:30pm, Tuesday – Friday 12-8:30pm.

Menu is designed to share – minimum of 2 guests per table.

Booking: https://coalshed-restaurant.co.uk/london/whats-on/

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