I first came across the fantastic flavours created by Chef Beatriz Maldonado Carreño at Elmore Jam, an eatery that caters for the City lunchtime trade with food that is much too good for those City workers. Owner Nick Atkins told me Bea is also the brains behind the kitchen magic at his ‘Supperclub on the Tube’. I knew I had to get a ticket and get on board, writes Michael Holland.
Stepping onto the 1960s’ carriage and seeing the old Victoria Line livery was nostalgia Heaven. Checking out the Six-Course Taster Menu was like looking into a future Paradise.
Once we were all seated and served drinks, Hostess Bea stood at the front to introduce herself and talk about the menu that is inspired not only by her homeland of Colombia but by her cheffing in most of the surrounding nations, plus her sous chef’s Brazilian heritage.
She told us to expect corn in every dish but this is no Jolly Green Giant corn, Bea does things with several types of corn (blue, yellow, white, chulpi and sweet) that the Corn Gods would be extremely pleased about. And Bea let us know that the whole evening would be replete with a Latin American flavour that came not only from the food but also a wine list that indulged us with the best from Argentina, Uruguay and Chile. And all unbelievably reasonably priced – the most expensive bottle was £42!
There was a spicy tomato soup to start us off that came with an array of textures and tastes. There was a crunch in the charred herbs and tortilla, a kick from the chipotle and a softness from the corn-fed chicken that altogether made this something amazing.
My companion and designated driver, Nina, had a Kambucha(£4) while I chose an Estival (£8.50), a Uruguayan white wine. An excellent fruity choice.
Course Two was our favourite. It had a very exotic name: Carimañolas de queso. To us, though, they were cheese bombs. Round, cassava and white corn croquettes filled with mozzarella and cheddar cheese that oozed out as you broke into the shell. They were beyond delicious.
The atmosphere in the carriage was now pure rush hour. The passengers were obviously enjoying the ride while the two servers were in and out with drinks and dishes as if they were late for work. How they never bumped into each other as they swerved in with trays was quite balletic, as if choreographed. And Bea with her sous chef were also helping out, fetching and carrying to make sure the customers got their food in a timely fashion.
I tried the Sauvignon Blanc(£9), also from Uruguay, though crisper and a lot less fruity it was an ideal accompaniment to the ceviche, An understated dish to look at but the lime-cured cod was excitingly brought to life with herb, spice, vegetable and fantastic toasted corn.
After all that early exhilaration the main course of shredded brisket in a sauce with rice seemed rather uneventful. It didn’t have the eye-catching attractiveness on the plate as the first three courses but, as before, the cooking was perfect. Nina remarked that her vegetarian alternative (mushroom replacing the beef) was ‘Brilliant!’
The courses were all appropriately sized. Just enough to get a real feel for the South American food but without getting too full. The interactive menu allowed insight to where the ingredients were sourced from and what the dishes were inspired by; a very nice touch for the foodies on board.
Action in the carriage now slowed down a little. Tables were cleared and the staff quietly brought in the first of the two desserts: Lulo Ice Dome. It truly was a thing of beauty. I felt that my spoon was going to explode the dome as I tried to cut into it so made the executive decision to eat it whole!
Once in, I bit into the dome to enjoy the explosion. What a sensation that was! There was some minor brain freeze and eye-watering when I released the cold interior but it was all very much worth it.
The epicurean evening of delicious delights came to a close with passion fruit cake, pannacotta, ice cream and a fruit compote. We were satisfyingly sated, and the meal was all we could talk about on the way back to South London.
Overground from South London to St James Street (then 5 minute walk)
Six-Course Tasting Menu £67 – £73
Supperclub.tube, Walthamstow Pumphouse Museum, South Access Road, London. E17 8AX
Check website for info, details and booking: https://supperclub.tube
