When I was asked to review Pizza Pilgrims’ Bermondsey Street store I realised I knew very little about them, so did some research before going along, and I’m glad I did, writes Michael Holland.
Brothers Thom and James Elliot one day gave up their good jobs to start selling pizza from the back of a van they’d managed to install a pizza oven in, and from that brave beginning, they have built up their business to have pizzerias all over the UK.
Having studied Italian cooking in Italy they have their ingredients imported from that country and are always looking for new and exciting pizza toppings, which brings me to why I got a call to try out their new ‘Guest’ pizza: The Americana.
It all sounded like a good idea to me as the PR person began talking me through the potential task, as this pizza features a béchamel sauce base with mozzarella – I was licking my lips already! But then she said it is then topped with frankfurters and French fries!
‘Sausage and chips on a pizza?’ I cried.
‘Whilst it might sound like a crazy combo,’ she began, ‘it’s actually a traditional delicacy in Naples.’
Well, I love a bit of tradition, and I always like saying ‘Yes’ to trying out new things, so myself and Nina the Ballerina took ourselves off to check out Pizza Pilgrims.
The pizzeria is perfectly placed in a railway arch beneath London Bridge Station at the Tooley Street end of Bermondsey Street where you could people-watch to your heart’s content. It is bright and spacious and makes a good attempt at recreating an Italian feel to the interior.
I knew what I was having so we ordered drinks and some olives while Nina made her selection. This could take some time so I settled back into my seat and sipped on a Camden Pale Ale, which was ideal for easing the sharp – but scintillating – shock of chilli in the olives.
Eventually, my companion made her choice, and it seemed to me to be almost as shocking as my Americana because she ordered the Pizz’ & Love vegan option but with mozzarella and anchovies added! ‘Sacrilege!’ I’m sure I heard the chef cry from the open kitchen. It was a riot of colour with its tomato base, wild broccoli, mushrooms, olives, red onion, artichoke hearts and vegan basil pesto, but surely those non-vegan additions were a criminal offence. But everyone to their own… And Nina enjoyed it immensely. I could tell because she had gone very quiet and had ceased to worry about the sauce accumulating around her mouth.
My Americana arrived looking like something an under-10 boy would put together if his mum wasn’t looking but I smiled inwardly and tucked in. And, to my surprise, this ‘crazy combo’ actually worked. The frankfurter added an interesting spiciness that countered the smoothness of the béchamel, and none of the topping ingredients was overwhelmed by a thick and stodgy dough because this base was ultra-thin.
Perhaps the fries were unnecessary but, let’s be honest, when are fries never a good call?
I can now see why Pizza Pilgrims has gone from strength to strength in just a few years.
Buy the brothers’ book on Amazon and read about their incredible story: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pizza-recipes-stories-history-places/dp/1787135152
https://www.pizzapilgrims.co.uk/venues/pizza-pilgrims-london-bridge/
Opening Times Mon: 12:00pm – 9:00pm; Tues – Sat: 12:00 pm – 10.30pm; Sun: 12:00pm – 9:00pm.
Pale Ale 3.00
Amalfi Lemonade 3.50
Burrata Caprese Salad 6.50
Olives 2.95
Vegan Pizza with Anchovies and Mozzarella 17.95
American 13.00
TOTAL £46.90