Where the simple is made special
The Wow Factor of 15Grams, that lies cosily in the snug of Tranquil Vale, begins with the enormous smiles that greet you like an old friend from the two front of house staff, writes Michael Holland.
We arrived before 7pm and even at that early hour on a Friday it looked like it might be full. We luckily got the last table.
Our server ran through the cocktail specials that culminated in us enjoying a gin and hibiscus extravaganza that lifted the spirits with fizz.
The menu is designed to allow seasonal additions. Right now rhubarb is peaking, hence the pickled rhubarb that accompanied my Scallop Ceviche – a creation that gave those wonderful sea creatures a texture I’d never experienced before – and was the main ingredient of a rather filling Rhubarb and Custard Trifle. It even appeared in the notes of the excellent French Rosé that enhanced our meal.
But rhubarb was just one of the exciting twists you’ll discover at 15Grams. Each dish looks like a work of art, and the artist is Mantas Stonis who has learnt his craft in 5 Star hotels and the kitchens of the top celebrity chefs. He works alone now, prepping and cooking around 50 covers, but can be seen out on the floor giving a helping hand by clearing tables and using that as an opportunity to talk to his customers and happily discuss each dish. He visited our table and seeing his passion for the restaurant and Blackheath and his local meat and fish suppliers was one of the many highlights of the evening.
To be honest, it was two hours of highlights that began when we shared Wood-Roasted Peppers with Anchovies and Jalapeño stuffed olives, and Smoked Ham Hock Croquettes – Both beautiful to look at; the main courses of Halibut with clams, spring vegetables in a butter sauce, and my ceviche. It is the colour and pleasing-to-the-eye aesthetic of the dishes that makes them stand out, and the little Mantas touches that takes them up, up and away from what could be a mundane plate in the hands of others: the swirly pickled cucumber on the croquettes, the lime and finely chopped dill oil dressing on the scallops and the red and green chilli slivers that liven a lot of the dishes with colour and kick. A basic tenderstem broccoli side was made magnificent with crispy onion, pomegranate and a eyebrow raising chilli and garlic dressing.
My companion’s cheese plate was one to be admired – So much so she was loathe to share… There was a goat, a soft, a hard and a very moreish blue(she informed me). And once again, Chef Mantas had used rhubarb to create a compote to help that cheese and crackers on their way.
I am already looking forward to revisiting in the summer to see what that season will bring to the menu that Mantas claims is ‘simple’ but we have now discovered is made special in his kitchen.
15Grams can be a celebratory feast or an easy catch-up. It caters for both pockets. Dinner is available Thursday and Friday. Breakfast and brunch available everyday.
30 Tranquil Vale, Blackheath Village, SE3 0AX. Monday–Wednesday 8am–4pm; Thursday–Friday
8am–10pm; Saturday–Sunday 9am–5pm.
Booking: https://www.15grams.co.uk/
