Offering the thrill of adventure
Luna, the new wine bar in Shad Thames, is the vino oasis in the middle of some of London’s finest restaurants, a quiet respite from the high-flying chefs bringing their take on modern cuisine to Bermondsey. But then, over your first refreshing glass, you discover that Luna has a small plate menu put together by the great chef Matt Beardmore and you suddenly feel more peckish than thirsty… writes Michael Holland.
Further inspection reveals that Luna is the offspring of rustic Italian restaurant Legare, just across the cobbles in Shad Thames, where it boasts a Michelin Bib Gourmand, courtesy of Matt’s culinary genius. Working along with renowned restaurateur Jay Patel, this winning team certainly know what they are doing.
Jay, who greeted us on arrival, says: ‘Matt is a phenomenal chef with a pitch perfect palate. We opened Legare together, and he’s been alongside me on this journey from the very start. His cooking honours the integrity of the ingredients, without the need for fussy peripheral garnish or extras that often detract from the actual joy of a simple well-executed dish.’
At this juncture it seemed only right that we take a look at a menu where the home-made crisps looked inviting, and there is always time for an Ibérico chorizo with manchego cheese to share…
The cheese was out of this world with its full-on flavour, and the crisps made the wine seem very moreish… Then we became intrigued by the potato rolls, so they also had to be investigated! As did the Cornish sea bass with game-changing pickled kumquats. That was an unbelievable plate of food!
By now Nina, the designated driver, had fell in love with Chinotto, a soft drink produced from the juice of the fruit of the myrtle-leaved orange tree, while I was equally smitten with my Tetramythos, a very dry Greek white wine that had all the fruity qualities I like.
And it is the wine that stands out at Luna. Curated by Jay, the list is an elite selection from the world’s best biodynamic wine growing regions and vineyards. He hasn’t gone for the big names to impress but more from little-known vintners that will intrigue; and you will know that they have been chosen because Jay’s own fine palate has led that decision.
The menu caught my eye again. A couple of Carlingford Oysters didn’t go amiss. They are Ireland’s finest but these came dressed with something I’ve never heard of and already need in my life on a regular basis: Finger limes! A unique small fruit that resembles caviar when opened. The ‘bubbles’ seemed to Pop and Fizz as you ate them. A truly wonderful extra to the already good shellfish.
The brilliance of Jay and Matt at the top obviously filters down to the staff. We learnt so much about where ingredients are sourced from, how the hake was cooked so beautifully, and what wines we should have as pairings with the different dishes. Our servers literally invited questions and we obliged in a quest to widen our knowledge. The whole evening was one of excitement, interest and education.
The menu is constantly changing as different foods come into season, or the chef has a new creation, but there will be some regular stalwarts for the wine-drinking clientele; I’m sure the home-made crisps will always be available, and I really want the oysters with finger lime to never not be there!
The highlight of Luna is that it offers the thrill of adventure as you try different wines and dishes from their ever-changing options. And that is what lifts this wine bar above the others.
Luna Wine Bar, Unit 6, 36 Shad Thames, London Bridge, London, SE1 2YE.
Booking and full menu details: lunawinebar.co.uk
