The Gentlemen Baristas coffee houses have been appearing all over London in recent years, with a brand new one opening its doors in a Mayfair mews just this week, but I was brunching at the original Gentlemen Baristas at Jerwood Space in Southwark, where the ethos of the company was set in stone in the early days and perpetuated throughout as the business grew, writes Michael Holland.
The principles of the founders are all about getting the most out of the bean (They also roast their own beans), having staff that are well-mannered, generous with their time and knowledge, and who create an open and inclusive coffee house; plus, importantly, that being a Gentlemen Barista is not a gender thing but a behaviour thing.
So, having read up on the company, I met with Roehampton Rosie in Union Street and ventured inside this bright, glass-walled space to put the principles to the test. Before we even reached the counter we were warmed with a thousand welcomes. Or, three, actually, but it was very nice.
But before anything else we were given a guided tour of the site, with several historical facts thrown in as we were shown where we could sit in the sun, sit in the shade, sit in a quiet corner (where students read) or sit in a lively part (where rehearsing actors take their lunch).
Rosie, always the fusspot, chose inside, ‘but not in the sun and not by a door because of the draught’. She then proceeded to look me up and down and tell me that the mackintosh I was wearing was a tad inappropriate, forcing me to explain that I had already been caught out twice that day in the sun-shower-sun-shower weather we had been experiencing. As I tookthe offending coat off I heard her confusing me with a merchant banker but did not correct her.
Our first order was cold sparkling water to quench the thirst Rosie had from walking in the sun, while we decided what to eat. It was a one-page menu full of interesting options, most of which included the current fads and superfoods, plus a few I’d never heard of – Chia and Dukkah, to name two. But it was the Cacklebean Egg that roused my interest. It sounded like something out of a children’s story so I asked our Gentleman Barista what he could tell me about them. He asked if I was sitting comfortably before he began telling me about a special farm far, far away with special chickens who lay special eggs with special orange yokes. Just then Rosie butted in with, ‘That’s all we need to know, mate; I’ll have the Smoked Salmon with rainbow radishes, caper berries, butter, and micro herbs on sourdough toast with one of those cacklefuckle eggs on the side.’
‘Cacklebean, Madam,’ he replied, ticking off numbers 2, 3, 4, and 5 on the company Principle List.
‘Whatever.’
Cringing, I ordered the Crispy Buttermilk Fried Chicken.
Just then ‘I Shot The Sheriff’ came wafting through the café as the cast of a forthcoming Bob Marley musical resumed their rehearsals in the former Victorian school next door that is now part of Jerwood Space. The music was a nice backdrop to my lunch companion telling me about growing up on the Alton Estate. ‘We used to sing this to the old bill as they drove past,’ she exclaimed rather loudly and proudly.
When our meals came they were delivered by a Gentlewoman Barista who had all the pleasant characteristics of the previous server who, no doubt, had asked to be subbed.
The conversation now turned to food. Rosie was all over the caper berries and made me watch while she stabbed the egg with her fork to let the orange yoke run wild across her salmon before she returned to making agreeable grunts after every mouthful.
My chicken in a toasted bun was delicious. The chilli aioli gave it a nice kick that caught me by surprise. And who doesn’t like surprises?
We spent some time discussing Covid restrictions as the rehearsals serenaded us with Redemption Song and after a short while we approached the counter to check out the cake and coffee options. I asked for advice from the Gentlewoman who suggested her own favourite: ‘a Flat White, for its perfect ratio between coffee and milk’. Rosie had the same but with oat milk… Although, I bet she doesn’t drink that round the flats!
We also shared a Coffee & Walnut Cake(Vegan) and a Bakewell Cake. Both were delightfully decadent.
All I can say is that The Gentlemen Baristas is the ideal place for a light lunch, meetings and catch ups, because there is ample space for large groups to gather, or single diners to enjoy some quiet time, and that I will be returning.
As we left the storm clouds opened again. I buttoned my raincoat and pulled up the collar. Poor Rosie was already drenched through by the time she got to the corner. Mellow voices drifted along Union Street – No Woman No Cry.
Jerwood Space,171 Union Street, Southwark, London. SE1 0LN
Mon-Fri: 08:30 – 16:30
https://www.thegentlemenbaristas.com/pages/locations#southwark
TOTAL: £31.30
