Smoked meats and homemade buns; founder Tom Goddard tells us about his fresh take on smokehouse cuisine
“I’d like to build up a good reputation with the community, and hopefully have some regulars who come down every lunchtime for their favourites,” says Tom Goddard, head chef and CEO of Southern Soul, who has launched his first bricks-and-mortar site in Greenwich.
Combining the products of his twin passions – for low‘n’slow meats and artisanal homemade bread – Tom is bringing barbecue to the Design District.
In the heart of Greenwich Peninsula, Southern Soul has opened its very own kitchen and has been welcomed into the international hub of great eats in the Food Hall.
It joins Hermanos, serving up classic Mexican street food; Juk Pou, with London’s first congee and youtiao street food concept; Pasta Rebels, featuring fresh pasta bowls with bold flavours; Tapas Bravas, presenting Spanish specialities; and Choy House, offering freshly made South-East Asian noodles.
And now Southern Soul with its dishes paying homage to southern USA food culture. Hero dishes include the Applewood Smoked Chicken Thigh, Smoked and Pulled Beef Brisket and Oak Smoked Beets, all served on freshly baked soft white buns with homemade pickles and dipping sauces.
Southern Soul has been a decade in the making. Fed up with working in finance, Tom “wanted a change” and took the plunge to switch careers to become a chef – and he hasn’t looked back.
Leaving the office for good, Tom appreciates the people he has met in kitchens all over the world: “There have been such great characters, and I’ve made such great friends doing this, it’s been a good adventure.”
The Southern Soul concept has been under development throughout Tom’s time working as a chef, notably in steak and BBQ restaurants, including Hawksmoor and Smokestak, as well as his time as a baker at The Dusty Knuckle, and street food trading at KERB.
“I loved open-fire cooking and being in an open restaurant and engaging with the customers,” he says.
Learning the ropes of a professional kitchen, Tom developed his skills and gained experience. But he is from a family “who are massively into socialising”.
Tom explains: “My family are big hosts, and my uncle is even helping me on the Southern Soul project. I think that’s what Southern Soul is about, too.
“It isn’t flash, it’s soul food, that’s what barbecue is about and what the southern states barbecue belt is all about – community, family, friends, music and having a good time.”
Setting up shop at Canteen, Tom has had to ditch the open flames, but he’s enjoyed working in the kitchen and curating the menu for the space.
“The pork belly rib is my number one item,” he says, “we slow smoke pork belly for eight hours in whiskey oak chips, paired with a really simple pickled fennel, and we serve it in our homemade white bun, and that comes with a Carolina Gold sauce. And that, for me, is the winner, really.”
When it comes to street food, Tom enjoys how raw it is: “It’s not as stuffy as going to a restaurant, it’s relaxed. Like when you go to Camden Market, for example, and it’s smoky and there is great music, it’s an environment I really like.”
As for Southern Soul’s home at Canteen, Tom wants to connect with the community and create dishes that will have people coming back for more.
In previous markets, he saw customers returning for specific dishes, “which is great and what I want to build”.
John-Luke Field, group general manager of Canteen Food Hall and Bureau, adds: “We’re so excited to be able to welcome Southern Soul to Canteen. Tom and Martin are a force to be reckoned with. Their dedication to quality, standout flavours and admirable approach to staff welfare are fully aligned with our values at Canteen.”
Canteen Food Hall and Bar, SE10 0AX
All images by Nic Crilly-Hargrave
