A Burger Bun with Structural Integrity
Despite being more than prepared to cater for a plethora of weather eventualities, everyone knows that al fresco food markets in London are best enjoyed when the weather is good (or failing that, just dry), writes Caitlin Odell.
So, considering the underwhelming warm up to summer we’ve seen thus far, it’s safe to say I was more than a little bit smug to be sitting on the raised terrace at Vinegar Yard, without a jacket but with a frosty IPA in the blazing sunlight on a Saturday lunchtime. The dozens of tables surrounding me were abundant with fresh beers, boxes of street food and faces mirroring my own sense of satisfaction. We had all picked the perfect place to spend the first day of the bank holiday weekend.
As someone who is very much inclined to assess a menu before eating out, I already knew that Nanny Bill’s was going to be featuring on the day’s line-up. And as someone who has also eaten more than their fair share of overpriced, disappointing beef burgers in London, I was absolutely elated to discover that Nanny Bills does not fall into that category. How you like to dress up your burger is your prerogative, and there’s more than enough room for accessorizing here in the way of croquettes, gravy pots, and special sauces. But whilst being a fun embellishment, none of these frills are smoke and mirrors for a substandard foundation.
Most importantly, the meat is juicy and flavourful. But beyond that, these people are assembling burgers in such a way that they become more than a sum of their (very high quality) parts. Between the thickness of the patties, the structural integrity of the bun and the well-judged ratio of sauce and cheese, each mouthful meshes together perfectly, making the entire experience immensely satisfying.
The distinction between burgers and sandwiches is blurry at best, which is why it felt a little bit unimaginative to be ordering both within the same mealtime. But something about the Untitled Sandwich Shop’s menu spoke to me, and when overwhelmed with so many tempting options, sometimes the best thing to do is let instincts guide you. The UK’s obsession with hot honey is one of the food fads I can absolutely get behind, and there are few things that this unbeatable condiment pairs better with than fried chicken and a mild, creamy cheese (stracciatella in this case) to balance it out.
The Hot Honey Chick comprised all of the above, with the addition of crispy peperoni, nduja and rocket in a crusty ciabatta – which despite sounding like a bit of a mouthful, was surprisingly light. Plus, if you’ve come with the intention of trying a few things (advisable), then sharing one of these is a great way to negotiate the beef Vs chicken conundrum when ordering your Nanny Bill’s burger…
Needless to say, stomach space was scarce after the meat and bread banquet. But as much as people say they have a separate stomach for dessert, on this particular day, I’d already pre-reserved room for dumplings from Nik’s Kitchen. And it was with great relief that I realised we’d be spared from choosing between the mushroom, chicken or pork and prawn gyozas. Instead, we could simply get a mix- and-match box of all three, and all three were wonderfully aromatic. Once again succumbing to a voice from within, we also ordered two slow roasted pork belly bao buns, which were soft, sweet, cloud-like and stuffed generously with beautifully tender meat.
I would advise anyone planning a visit to Vinegar Yard to arrive hungry, because limiting yourself to one stall would only be doing yourself a disservice.
Food photos: Caitlin Odell
Vinegar Yard, 72-82 St Thomas St, London SE1 3QU
Monday – Tuesday 17:00 – 22:00; Wednesday – Saturday 12:00 – 22:00, Sunday 12:00 – 20:00
Flea Market: Every Saturday & Sunday 11:00 – 17:00
