Everyone involved in the Duke of Greenwich is doing everything right
Once I’d been invited to review the Duke of Greenwich I had a quick Google to see what was going on there and was very excited to find such a great pedigree of knowledge and experience amongst the owners. So excited that I booked to go along the very next day, writes Michael Holland.
Walking to the pub through the leafy backstreets of SE10 the first thing you notice is the tantalising aroma of meat cooking over hot coals because our route took us past the huge beer garden where a bespoke area for barbecuing has been built amongst the outside dining tables.
Entering through the front door you are greeted with welcoming smiles and low music that keeps just this side of the obscure to ensure its coolness.
Millie, who Royally looked after us for the evening, answered any questions we had and was brilliant for instant reviews of the dishes because she has quite obviously tried them all, hence my choice of Smoked Pork Burnt Ends, which was as good as her word. As was Nina’s Cucumber Nojito (Mocktail), which she agreed was, ‘Very refreshing!’.
Other choices from a menu that is perfectly seasonal were all our own, and that meant a Forest Road IPA from Bermondsey for me while I sat back and let my more fussy companion choose the dishes that we would share.
The Duke of Greenwich is all about sustainability when it comes to their meat and fish suppliers – who get a lot of credit on the website. And the brewers they order from are not just London-based but strictly South London, who also have to be independent to get their business.
I was liking everything about this place more and more as I sipped my ale, enjoyed the scent of burning flesh wafting in from the garden, and watched a happy team go about their business.
Baba Ganoush with pomegranate and a crunchy pistachio crumb was placed between us with several warm flat breads. I’m not a fan of this pureed aubergine dish but those little additions lifted it up, up and away from its natural blandness and gave it colour and crunch.
The house manager came to introduce himself, saying how he ‘came in November and didn’t leave!’, before explaining how the owners are not here trying to get rich quick but to make people happy. And after just a year they seem to be doing exactly that. He then suggested a nice, fruity Vinho Verde from Portugal. Good call, Sir.
We had been told that because pretty much all of our dishes were being grilled over sustainable marabu coals, with no precise up or down heat controls, they would be served as and when they were done.’Perfect,’ we cried in unison. And that’s how they came.
One, two, three, four, plate after plate of dishes that provided all the taste and texture you could handle in one sitting. Luckily, I wasn’t expected to share any of my burnt pork dish with its absolutely wonderful garnish of pickled radish, and didn’t ask for any of Nina’s Miso Grilled Squash in its sticky sesame glaze (although the sauce it created was nice for dipping the swordfish in…
And it was the grilled swordfish that took full honours for best dish of the meal. Its melting texture was amazing and had us wondering whether it was a ceviche or something barely seared over the coals. Fortunately for us, the grill chef was not precious about his recipe and told us how it was marinated, salted and then quickly cooked.
We were now pleasantly sated rather than stuffed, and I sat with my wine to wind down the evening. But then Millie returned asking about desserts. ‘Not for me, thanks,’ I said while still thinking about the swordfish.
‘Yes,’ exclaimed Nina, ‘We’ll share the cheesecake.’
And that is how we were soon tucking in to this house brick-sized chunk of gorgeous peanut butter cheesecake with caramelised banana and a banana cream.
Oh my good gawd! The sugar rush was incredible. ‘I feel like I’m levitating,’ she across the table squealed, her eyes about to pop out of her head.
‘I won’t sleep tonight,’ said I, racing to eat more than my fair share. ‘And I don’t care!’
And that is how we ended a fantastic feast.
Everyone involved in the Duke of Greenwich is doing everything right to make this a pub that deserves to be a long-term success. We are already planning a trip back to savour a Sunday lunch there. I heard a whisper about the Jerk Gravy that has already chosen what I’ll be having when we do return.
The Duke of Greenwich, 91 Colomb Street, Greenwich, SE10 9EZ – 0208 858 3577
Website: https://www.dukeofgreenwich.com/
Dinner and drinks for two: £90
